One Perfect Day in South Kona
From exploring a painted church perched on a volcanic hillside to eating cheeseburgers in paradise, here are six experiences we enjoyed during one sun-filled day in South Kona on the Big Island of Hawaii.
Meeting bees. Our hotel was about 40 miles north, so we had to get up early to make it to the 10 a.m. tour at Big Island Bees. We were super excited to visit a bee farm — our first time! — and the scenic road on the way to Kealakekua Bay is full of twists and turns, so the morning journey was a very happy part of the whole experience. Once at Big Island Bees, we saw beekeeping artifacts, listened to a very engaging talk about life in a beehive, and got a close-up view of an observation hive full of busy bees. Of course, we enjoyed a honey tasting at the end of the tour, and we socialized with the other visitors in our small group — all of them very friendly and from (almost) every part of the world. We bought some Hawaiian Honey Mustard and Organic Wilelaiki Blossom Honey. We really just fell in love with the place and the bees (see our story here).
Seeing 57 types of fruit trees — OK, and eating some chocolate. Down the way from Big Island Bees is Kona Pacific Farmers Cooperative. This is a fascinating place! World famous Kona coffee has been continuously processed here for 105 years. The cooperative is made up of 32 farmers and the specialties are, yup, Kona coffee and macadamia nuts. We were greeted by smiling people with plentiful samples. Plentiful meaning we were given chocolate covered macadamia nuts in powdered sugar, dark chocolate covered peaberry coffee beans, pieces of exotic fruits we’d never before seen, and all the sips of coffee we wanted. The chocolate room wasn’t operating when we stopped in, but we could see the equipment where the nuts and beans are panned.
The thing we enjoyed most was the self-guided walking tour. We were given a map showing where to find 57 different fruit trees. Everything is growing there — from the predictable banana to soursop, a fruit eaten as a candy in Latin America. On the walk, we also encountered wild chickens. There were small kiosks that offered much-appreciated shade and information about the cooperative. There were also different pieces of agricultural equipment scattered about. It was interesting to see the rusted roofs of the facilities where over 2,000,000 pounds of coffee are processed annually and to get so much insight into where food comes from. Even here, the views are breathtaking. We went back inside and bought some fresh fruit and nuts to snack on later. We heard from others in the store that the ice cream sold at KPFC is amazing but we didn’t have any. Balanced diets and all, you know?
Exploring a painted church. At this point, we had to choose whether we wanted to spend the rest of the day making a strenuous hike to, and from, the Captain Cook Monument or see a few other important historical places. It really wasn’t a difficult decision. Fewer than five miles south, we found St. Benedict Roman Catholic Church, which is known all over the world as The Painted Church. From the outside, what you see is a small white church perched on a grassy volcanic slope overlooking Kealakekua Bay. There is a cemetery and a small garden. Inside is where you find the surprise. For a five-year period from 1899 to 1904, with nothing but regular house paint, a Belgian priest painted the ceiling and walls with Biblical scenes. A lot of guidebooks don’t mention the architectural details but the design of the church — its vaulted ceiling, the columns — is beautiful and unusual. Altogether, it’s entrancing.
Swimming with the fishes (and turtles). We drove about five minutes to the bay. It was a fun drive on a bit of a narrow road to Two Step, a snorkeling spot many people consider the best on the Big Island. Two Step shares a parking lot with the Pu’uhonua O Honaunau National Historic Park. Two Step lives up to the hype! It’s teeming with turtles and amazing tropical fish of all sizes and colors. There are several different types of coral, too. We aren’t super snorkelers but found the water to be calm and easy to enter. In fact, the name Two Step refers to an entry point on the shoreline where the volcanic rock forms two steps to help you get in the water. After a short swim, we let the sun dry us off as we ate pretzels and bread dipped in the Big Island Bees honey mustard, and handfuls of nuts and slices of fresh fruit from Kona Pacific Farmers Cooperative before entering the national historic park.
Visiting a place of refuge. In old Hawaii, Pu’uhonua O Honaunau was a place of refuge for people who committed crimes for which the punishment was death. A person who broke the law could run for the place of refuge and be given sanctuary. Defeated warriors and civilians during wartime could live in peace at the Pu’uhonua. At this rebuilt sanctuary, we went to the visitor center for an orientation and then took the self-guided tour. We saw the royal grounds where the chiefs would reside. There are beautifully reconstructed temples, traditional buildings, and tikis — all surrounded by a gorgeous volcanic beach. There really is a feeling of reverence at this place. It is a place where the complexity and beauty of the Hawaiian culture can be briefly perceived.
Eating cheeseburgers in paradise. It’s been an adventure-filled day and we’re starving! Where should we go? We happened to meet a chef who left California a few months earlier to clear his mind on the Big Island, and he didn’t hesitate to tell us to go to Annie’s Island Fresh Burgers. Located on the main highway, Annie’s features a welcoming lanai with unparalleled views of the bay. All of the dishes emphasize seasonal and locally sourced ingredients. The burgers were generously sized and delicious. With friendly service and cold drinks, Annie’s was a perfect spot to enjoy happy hour and end a pretty perfect day.
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2 Responses to One Perfect Day in South Kona
Bookmarking this for my winter trip to the big island! Great photos. Thanks!
I’ve been to the co-operative and it turned out to be one of my favorite experiences on the big island. Place of refuge is really a spiritual experience. These are good tips.